Margaret’s
Frequently Asked Questions.
Since 1953
Travel Tips
I recommend not to box your gown unless it meets the carry-on requirements, or you check with the airlines to assure them that they will put it in baggage at the gate. Checking your gown like luggage is too risky.
A convenient method I have employed is a man’s suit hanger or wide drapery hanger and a 60" garment bag (Margaret's sells a breathable bag designed for just this purpose, our 60" travel garment bag). I recommend you carry your dress on the plane. Be the last to put something into the overhead and the first to take it down.
Don't hesitate to contact our bridal coordinator at (866) 454-2375 for detailed packaging instructions. If we are pressing your gown before the wedding, we would be glad to provide this complimentary packaging service for you.
That is an excellent question...Especially with the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic, we should always consider the types of things that can happen to suitcases and what our luggage can pick up at an airport, from other luggage on a plane, or in a hotel room. Chuck Horst was one of several who contributed to an article in Budget Travel called "The Neat Freak's Guide to a Clean Suitcase." It should provide all the ideas you need when considering whether to clean and what to do when a spill happens.
New link for Budget Travel article:
Storage Tips
Yes, consider installing a cedar closet if you have the space to dedicate to off-season garment storage. Cedar has long been considered an ideal storage environment in the fight to stave off insect damage. While there are no guarantees, a well-sealed and periodically renewed cedar closet is a tremendous asset for home storage.
Avoid attics, basements, and garages generally! While there may be exceptions, in most instances, these areas do not have the same temperature and humidity control as the main living areas of a home.
Remove all plastic bags from your clothing before storing them for a period. The dry cleaners you receive your clothes in bags are meant for short-term protection only. By not allowing the fabric to breathe, these bags can trap heat and humidity and contribute to the oxidization of stains and general discoloration of fabrics. To protect garments from dust settling, throw a cotton sheet or large towel over the top of the rack. This still allows the materials to breathe.
It's essential to choose between hanging and folding for storage. It's generally straightforward to make that determination. Sturdy tight weaves do just fine on a hanger and require very little maintenance when it is time to reactivate them. Most knits, especially the looser and thinner ones, should be folded (using acid-free tissue to soften the folds) to prevent distortion of the shape. A beautiful knit can become distorted if stored carelessly.
Never mix the cleaned with uncleaned clothes. Clothes that have NOT been washed should never be stored in the same area as those that HAVE, regardless of how little they have been worn.
An appropriate area to store clothes should be:
- Well ventilated
- Free of excessive moisture or humidity
- Free of large temperature fluctuations
- Free from direct sunlight or artificial light
- Free from dust
The most important precaution is to clean all your clothes before putting them away for the season, even if they don't appear to need them. Some people think cleaning is "bad" for clothes. However, if you talk to anyone in the fashion world, the universally accepted notion is that cleaning is suitable for dresses...and only "bad" cleaning is inadequate for clothes.
Stain and Spot Removal
The simple answer is YES for most types of stains...butter, salad dressing, lipstick, even wine.....UNLESS the garment has already been washed at home, and the color has "set" into the fabric. In general, for ALL spots on garments...if you do NOTHING yourself, we can usually get the stains out. If you have a fresh wet stain, the MOST you should do is BLOT it. NEVER RUB A STAIN. Get it to Margaret's as soon as possible!
Let's get technical here. STAINS are permanent and, in some cases, can be lightened or improved. SPOTS typically can be removed. We tell every customer, ”If you are not 100% sure you can remove that spot, DO NOTHING and get it to us as soon as possible" otherwise, you'll turn that spot into a stain!
The stain is most likely caused by bacterial growth, not the antiperspirant itself. Antiperspirant is an aluminum chloride salt which is an inorganic compound. Some information shows that antiperspirants can promote bacterial growth, resulting in common yellow underarm stains. Even if the antiperspirant isn't promoting bacterial growth, it also doesn't appear to stop the perspiration, ultimately causing the stain.
Some deodorants have a bacteria inhibitor to curb bacterial growth. Try switching to a deodorant rather than an antiperspirant. Be sure the deodorant inhibits bacterial growth and is not just a fragrant mask.
Dry cleaning does an unsatisfactory job by itself on perspiration. Your dry cleaner will need to pretreat the sweat before cleaning to remove it. Several agents can be used. Please inform your cleaner when you take it in.
One of the dry cleaners' worst enemies is "invisible stains" like spray from a grapefruit or apple, hair spray, or perfume. It is usually these stains that a consumer sees on their freshly cleaned garments and exclaim, "That wasn't there when I gave it to you!"
What has happened is that these types of stains are not visible until affected by the heat associated with the drying cycle or pressing. With the application of heat, the sugar of the apple stain caramelized, and the oil stains oxidized, making them visible.
Dry cleaning in and of itself will not remove these stains, and, depending on the material, some can be removed after they show up with the treatment of an expert technician. Some may never be removed.
If you know of any possible invisible stain conditions on a garment, please point them out to the dry cleaner so that he may flush them out before the dry-cleaning process sets the stain.
Special Cleaning Needs
Without seeing the garment, it’s hard to know the problem, but there are typically two issues. Often, sequins are sewn onto a garment in a string with the same thread. Check the sewing with a magnifying glass and stitch up any open areas under good light. If the sequins are glued onto the top, be very careful about washing or dry cleaning. Read the care label or consult your dry-cleaner for advice.
Considering that all the other clothing was white and washable, you have a good chance of restoring them. You will need to "dye-strip" the pieces. Usually, you can use a Rit product or similar product that states that it's a dye-stripper. Sometimes white cotton turns a little yellow from the acidity, but that can sometimes be remedied with a little diluted ammonia.
If the garments are valuable, then consult your dry cleaner. They have lots of experience with this dilemma!
These are 55% silk and 45% cotton. He only wore them once. I washed them in Woolite and hung them outside to dry, but the odor remains. What can we do?
It is "curing" during the manufacturing process that causes that problem. You need to be aware of when you begin to shop.
A fact about Silk Knits: If the fabric and mixture are not processed properly—not appropriately boiled—then the material holds sericin (from the silk cocoon, sericulture), which causes foul odors. Neither dry cleaning nor washing will remove the scent. Only boiling will help, but the garment would be ruined.
The best thing to do is to return the garment to the retailer. They need to know about the problem so they can send them back.
A "spot clean only" label means you can only clean this item by hand. You are particularly careful not to get the dress heavily soiled or spotted when wearing it. One possible problem with a full-service laundry or dry cleaning is that such processing may cause the embellishments to lose their finish.
Spot cleaning (what we refer to as hand cleaning) involves removing each spot or stain one at a time with the proper cleaning agents to assure that no damage is caused to the beaded finish. Then the underarms and lining are wiped down. Finally, the dress is hand pressed.
A dry cleaner that regularly handles high-end garments should not have a problem servicing this garment for you. Be sure to point out the label when dropping it off. We are confident in our ability to clean the dress for you if you wish and would be happy to do it, especially if it is a particularly high-end piece or one of your favorites! Margaret's has the experience needed to handle such challenges. If necessary, you may use our CleanByMail service, as we take these items regularly.
Shoe Care
Chlorophyll from grass binds to the fiber of your shoe, making it challenging to remove but not impossible. Since athletic footwear is made from materials such as nylon, canvas, leather, and sometimes suede, other cleaning solutions and procedures are required for each shoe portion. We recommend having them professionally cleaned.
Heat and dry air can damage this exotic skin causing it to peel or flake. Never leave your shoes in direct sunlight or near central heating air vents to avoid this. Also, avoid getting your python shoes or boots wet. The skin absorbs water, causing damage to occur. If you do get them wet, let them dry naturally.
Since most stains on satin wedding shoes are food-related (wine, cake) or from tar, grass, seawater, sand, etc., your best bet of getting them cleaned would be to take them to a reputable dry cleaner who specializes in spot removal. You can take them to a cobbler first who will either clean the shoes or make recommendations and referrals.
Shirt Cleaning Services
Margaret's offers three different varieties of shirt cleaning services. Our regular Shirt Laundry, Del Mar Shirt Laundry, and our Bel Air Shirt Service. Depending on the fabric and the designer, we have found that the preferred cleaning technique can vary.
Regular Shirt Laundry & Finishing
This is a machine laundry process. Shirts are finished on a laundry shirt press and receive minor hand touch-ups if needed.
Del Mar Shirt Laundry
Del Mar is also a laundry process; however, we use a specialty detergent on shirts which helps them retain their brightness, cleans collars well, and overall help your shirts maintain their original appearance. If starch is requested, we use a natural starch that does not build up like many commonly used synthetic varieties. Shirts are machine pressed initially and then touched up by hand for details. We remove collar stays and replace them after finishing. Plastic butterflies support shirt collars and prevent droop. Shirts are folded using the same types of boards and supports as manufacturers.
Bel Air Shirt Service
Today's high-end men's cotton dress shirts are more delicate and fitted than in the past. Older processing techniques are no longer the best choice to maintain the life of these shirts. Many are designed for a lower washing temperature and a lower ironing temperature than used in traditional laundry operations. Margaret's Bel Air Shirt Service uses a gentle hand wash or clean, dry process, as suggested by the manufacturer's care label. The shirts are soft pressed. This lower-temperature multi-stage cleaning and pressing process is designed to extend the life of your finest dress shirts. Bel Air minimizes the heat, and mechanical action your shirts are exposed to...whites stay white, and colors remain bright. The result is a softer, more delicate texture.
Bel Air is strongly suggested for these brands: Balmain, Brioni, Dolce & Gabbana, Hermes, Isaia, Kiton, Loro Piana, Prada, Scott Hill Custom, Stefano Ricci, Tom Ford, Yohji Yamamoto.
How can a consumer get around this (yet still provide the dry cleaner with care instructions)? A professional can clean most clothing without using care labels. However, with all the new fabrics and constantly changing care instructions, it always helps when the dry cleaner can double-check the care label.
If the label “irritates” the skin or shows through the garment, it can be removed or relocated to a less prominent place. If there is no choice but to remove it, I suggest that the label instructions be copied into a notebook and either submitted or verbally conveyed when the garment is dropped off for cleaning.
Worn clothing may contain collar & cuff soil, food and drink stains, perspiration, cologne, and perfume, which can discolor fabrics and cause holes and yellow or brown colors. Stains are considerably more challenging to remove if they sit in the material for more than 48 hours. Insects love soiled fabrics and are attracted to all the colors listed above.
What are some items that should be dry cleaned “regularly” (even if they seem to be “clean”)?
Clothing should be cleaned, without exception, before storing for the season, even if they appear clean and are only worn for 5 minutes. This applies to all fabrics, but especially to wool clothing and sweaters.
When labels like this surface, there are ways to get around them. In most cases, Margaret's has the skill, experience, and ingenuity to properly assess the fabric, construction, embellishments, and dyes to find a safe way to clean the garment. Sometimes the garment can be “spot cleaned” in the troubled areas, complying with the unrealistic and problematic care label.
Care labels can be limiting or misleading, but in most cases, when a label says dry clean, only it means it. Of course, consumers and dry cleaners often do hand wash dry clean only clothing (professionals call hand washing “wetcleaning”). However, many fabrics that bear a dry clean only label, such as linen, cotton, and some rayon, microfiber, and silk, are wetcleaned successfully. Remember that lighter colors respond best (limiting dye bleed and fading), and most require expert pressing and finishing to maintain the proper body and drape.
A Chuck Horst Handout from Nordstrom
PURCHASING
- Ask for extra buttons
- The classics never tire, mainly black
- Buy within the season to match, primarily white
ALTERING
- Altering knits are generally more expensive than fabric garments
- Save the trim for repairs if needed later in the life of the knit
WEARING
- Comfortable-breathable, hygroscopic, stretchable & wrinkle resistant
- Careful taking off, do not overstretch.
PACKING AND TRAVELING WITH KNITS AND OTHER GARMENTS
- Excellent for packing, wrinkle resistant
- Hang blazers in a wardrobe bag (one to a poly bag)
- Okay, to fold slacks, sweaters, and shells
- Hang up as soon as you check-in
- Never trust an unproven cleaner with your fine knits
WHAT IS KNIT BLOCKING?
- It is not pressing. Blocking involves steaming, distributing, and cooling the knit with a vacuum.
- Knit blocking can increase the size and a half or reduce half a size
REPAIRING & RESTORING
- Solid whites can be brightened
- Mending & re-knitting, darker pieces mend well
- Change shoulder pads and update buttons
SEASONAL STORAGE
- Don’t overcrowd closet
- Always put garments away clean at the end of the wearing season
- Use padded hangers on knit tops, blazers, and blouses, unless there are shoulder pads
- Never store in plastic non-breathable bags, neither vinyl store bag nor a cleaner’s bag.
- Vinyl bags are great for traveling.
- Store in a breathable bag to protect from insect damage.
- Hang to dry before placing in a closet to prevent mildew growth.
- Fold and shelve sweaters to keep their shape
LONG TERM STORAGE
- Cedar & lavender
- Breathable garment bags can prevent mold and insect damage (see link below)
- Wardrobe Products: https://margarets.com/BoutiqueWardrobeProducts.html
- Moth balls are not recommended if you intend to use the garment again, as mothball odors are complex to remove
- All knits should be folded
Leather & Suede Storage
- Dry before storing
- Use a breathable storage bag
What is Dry cleaning
- Similar to machine washing with a solvent and little water
- Best cleaning for oily stains (salad dressing, lipstick)
How to choose a dry cleaner
- Ask managers of finer department stores
- Abandon a cleaner immediately if your clothes smell of cleaning solvent
- Only let a specialty dry cleaner handle embellished pieces.
When to dry clean?
- Before putting away for the season
- Shortly after any soiling...old stains are more difficult to remove
What to tell your dry cleaner
- Any unique care label requirements like do not tumble dry
- Knits and ties are to be blocked and never pressed
- You should request blocking every time a knit is cleaned
- Special blocking
- Stains (visible or invisible) and content of the stain
- This is just one piece of an outfit
Wet Cleaning
Laundry
- The biggest problem is over-drying
- New equipment is great
- Best for removing water stains (drinks, perspiration, some foods)
Hand washing and cleaning
- Couture garments
- Leather & suede
- Purse cleaning
Mold and Mildew
The white spots you are experiencing are mold. Wiping the white areas only removes the fungus from the surface. Spores will remain in the fibers, and the fungus will quickly return. Do not leave your clothes in plastic garment bags for extended periods. You will need to address the humidity condition that most likely exists in your closet. Special treatment from a dry cleaner with the right equipment can remove the mold embedded in the garment. One of Margaret's specialties is just that. We often see that in garments and handbags that have water damage.
Here is a link to our newsletter called “Mold and Mildew Primer” for more information and examples of what it looks like.
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs-AsSeen-News-Specials/Newsletters/Margarets-About-Mold&Mildew.pdf
Margaret's Material Guide
We have produced a Fiber Glossary booklet summarizing many of the most frequently seen fibers in clothing.
Here’s the link to the Fiber Glossary:
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs-AsSeen-News-Specials/Newsletters/Margarets-Fiber-Glossary-2022.pdf
Rayon is an artificial material composed of regenerated cellulose usually obtained from wood pulp. Rayon can be made to simulate many common materials such as wool and silk and can be used by itself or blended with other materials. The advantages associated with rayon are its versatility, excellent moisture absorption, and dye compatibility.
Rayon's limitations include its sensitivity to heat and light exposure, water can weaken the material and cause shrinkage, and many spot removal techniques are incompatible.
Some types of fabric and garment construction make dry cleaning advisable. Wet cleaning can produce some materials limp and may cause shrinkage. If wet cleaning is performed, please follow the instructions outlined in our FAQ regarding wet cleaning. Note that fabrics containing rayon can be bleached after testing first. However, some finishes to control shrinkage may be sensitive to bleach.
All garments must have a clothing care tag attached to them with instructions on cleaning them and what materials the garment is made of. It's important to leave that information on the garment. Otherwise, your dry cleaner will not know precisely how to handle it. Here's a link to our Clothing Care Symbol Guide.
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs/Newsletters/Clothing-Care-Symbol-Guide.pdf
Note that handbags are NOT required to have any detailed information regarding the materials they are constructed out of OR the recommended cleaning techniques, which is why cleaning them can be so tricky.
Margaret's General Information
Currently, the hours of all our locations are the same.
La Jolla:
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM
WEDNESDAY: 9:00AM to 5:00PM
Saturday: 9:00AM to 4:00PM
Sunday: Closed
San Diego/Kearny Mesa:
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM
WEDNESDAY: 9:00AM to 5:00PM
Saturday: 9:00AM to 4:00PM
Sunday: Closed
Del Mar/Rancho Santa Fe:
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM
WEDNESDAY: 9:00AM to 5:00PM
Saturday: 9:00AM to 4:00PM
Sunday: Closed
Newport Beach:
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM
WEDNESDAY: 9:00AM to 5:00PM
Saturday: 9:00AM to 4:00PM
Sunday: Closed
Los Angeles:
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM
WEDNESDAY: 9:00AM to 5:00PM
Saturday: 9:00AM to 4:00PM
Sunday: Closed
We have five Southern California locations in addition to our Valet Delivery Service (pick up & delivery) throughout San Diego County, Orange County, and the LA/Beverly Hills/Westwood area. We offer CleanByMail services nationwide. Visit the Locations page of this website for maps and directions.
La Jolla:
7511 La Jolla Blvd.
La Jolla, CA 92037
(858) 454-2375
San Diego/Kearny Mesa:
5150 Convoy Street
San Diego, CA 92111
(858) 454-2375
Del Mar/Rancho Santa Fe:
3790 Via De La Valle
Del Mar, CA 92014
(858) 755-2715
Newport Beach:
1831 Westcliff Dr.
Newport Beach, CA 92626
(949) 645-5210
Los Angeles/Westwood:
10700 Santa Monica Blvd. Ste. 160
Los Angeles, CA 90025
(310) 470-9200
Due to the variance in materials and construction, we do not have a single set price for an item category. For example, a blouse can have an extensive range of prices, from a simple cotton tee to a silk designer top with rhinestone buttons and a temporary pleated finish requiring repleating with each cleaning. Below is a sign we post that states our AVERAGE prices for several standard items. Click on the link below for our published price list, including the range for specialty items.
http://www.margarets.com/PriceList.html
For more specific estimates, please give us a call or use one of the estimate forms on the website. The forms allow you to upload photos of the item with them. We'd be happy to give you an estimate for your item or garment over the phone or video chat.
We are always glad to take the time when you drop off an item to provide an exact quote for the articles left for service. Please be patient as the pricing step is slightly involved and may take a few minutes.
We perform much more work and care to ensure your garments are attended to in the best possible manner. Our prices reflect the attention and effort we extend.
For example, we don't just clean light-colored garments separately from dark-colored clothes. We classify garments over 15 groups, all requiring individually customized cleaning programs. With such classification, we can keep the colors the brightest and the feel of the garment as the designer intended. This is just on the dry-cleaning side.
We have 11 different and specialized finishing stations. You can't get the finest results on an evening gown by a finisher if she is expected to produce khaki pants on the same station for half the day. Khaki pants are best made with a more complex press pad to generate a crisp finish.
For a complete answer to this question, please visit this website's "About Us" section.
Leather & Suede
Ink on a suede garment is a difficult stain to remove, even for an experienced suede cleaner. Dyes on suede and leather garments are not as colorfast as one would desire. Often it is necessary to remove some dye along with the ink and then replace the dye. This is a complex process depending on the color of the suede. Be sure to ask your leather cleaner how they do with ink before entrusting them with the item. If this is an exceptional piece, I would recommend utilizing our Clean-By-Mail service so that we may professionally care for your article. To see some samples of our ability to remove ink from leather, please see our "Ink on Leather Before and After" booklet.
Most people don’t know it, but suede garments can be pressed. Either take it to a trusted dry cleaner or try it yourself if you are the adventuresome type. Use a pressing cloth (a piece of muslin or cotton) and an iron on a low temp with NO steam. Also, using a suede brush may help. They can generally be purchased at a shoe repair store.
Laundry & Washing
The simple answer is “yes.” The key to keeping a down item fluffy and full is proper drying. We require 1 to 2 weeks to process any specific down item. At Margaret’s Cleaners, we will always follow the manufacturer's recommendation, but our experience allows us to know the best process for each item.
Yes, we can handle virtually anything. As a point of reference, the care instructions are critical if the manufacturer has made an item with unusual trim and embellishments. Typical bedding and linens can be dry cleaned. However, many can be professionally laundered, and with over 125 years of combined cleaning experience, Margaret’s has the skill to know the best and safest process.
There is always a slight chance that any item can shrink in processing. This is caused by the mechanical action of the washing process, which allows the fibers to expand and loosen. During the drying process, those fibers tightened up. If the manufacturer gives you a direction, for example: "Cold wash only" on the care label, then there should be no shrinkage in cold washing. However, with linens, sometimes it is necessary to process them at a higher temperature for stain removal. So be sure to talk to your route driver or a store's CSRs for more information when you drop off the item.
Everything fades with time. Just being in the sun can result in color loss. That said, Dry cleaning is the least likely thing to cause color loss or fading. GREEN EARTH is the most delicate of the three systems we use for maintaining its original color. If you are concerned or want more information, call (858) 454-2375 and ask to speak to our production manager.
We do our best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when handling shirts. We have three different types of shirt service...one is basic laundry, another we call Del Mar, and a third, called Bel Air, is designed explicitly for the highest-end shirts, which have specific needs. In addition, every shirt collar, cuff, and the sleeve is measured before cleaning. Following the primary cleaning processes, and before pressing, we compare those starting measurements and correct them as needed when we finish the shirt.
Always clean the entire set of table linens. Washing part of a colored set can result in slight variations in color over time.
Knit Blocking & Care
I accidentally washed a wool sweater. I did not dry it in the dryer, but it still shrunk. Any advice?
It may be possible if you wish to stretch your sweater back to shape, but it's a little tricky. Washing the sweater, even by hand, tightened all the yarns. In a worst-case scenario, it may have "felted," which is very hard to restore. (But this usually results from tumble-drying.)
Try this procedure at home or have your dry cleaner do it. (See the "What is knit blocking" FAQ for information on how this is done professionally.) Re-wet the sweater in a sink with some detergent and a little dissolved hair conditioner. This should loosen and relax the yarns. Rinse gently, squeeze out the excess water, and lay it flat on a white terry towel. Once on the towel, you can try to re-block it to the desired larger measurement, with particular attention to the areas you felt shrunk. The more you pull, the thinner or narrower it gets. Continue blocking it until it's dry, or it may continue to shrink.
ORIGINAL QUESTION:
I have a gorgeous St John Knit white sweater with gold trim around the neckline. One of the sleeves has a spot on it near the shoulder. What can I put on this to take this spot out? I have tried many dry cleaners around the area on several other outfits only to be severely disappointed, so I am not going that route. Thanks, I hope you can suggest a solvent for something. Mrs. Young.
ANSWER:
I empathize with your disappointment in the area dry cleaners. Designer clothing like St John is best cleaned by someone well experienced with them. Not knowing the stain makes it nearly impossible for me to advise you on the proper stain removal techniques. I would gladly help you with a less expensive piece, but I cannot advise you on a home remedy in this case. The good news is that knit garments ship very well, and we would be glad to take care of this item for you. We are experienced with St John knits and know what to expect from them. We often clean for St John Corporation and take care of all the St John garments for Nordstrom and Saks here in Southern California. Ship this item using our CleanByMail program, and we will not disappoint you.
Knit blocking is changing the size or shape of an item or returning it to its original dimensions by redistributing the knit weave and not altering it. Blocking is accomplished through an iterative process of passing steam through the knit material, shifting and distributing the material to the desired position, and tamping and cooling the knit to lock in the new distribution. Working iteratively in both dimensions is necessary to produce a stable result. A professionally blocked knit would hold its extent through cleaning unless it were over-blocked. Typically, it is possible to reduce a half size or increase a length and a half without over blocking.
Delicate knit garments such as St John knitwear should be stored properly to protect from damage. Proper keeping will prevent damage from insects, fading, and mold.
INSECT DAMAGE—The wool in St. John knitwear's wool/rayon fabric is attractive to moths, silverfish, and carpet beetles. Wool contains protein, a digestible food source for insects. Always store your garments clean for the season; the scent of perfume and body oil attract insects leading them to the wool food source. Protect your garments from insects with a non-digestible barrier like the breathable garment bags discussed below.
FADING—The dyes used in coloring fabric and adhesives used to attach ornamentation give off gases that, if permitted to collect, can reach a concentration that will cause fume fading. Fume fading is one of the causes for white garments to yellow and brightly colored fabrics to discolor. For this reason, it is always best to store garments in a breathable bag to prevent the collection of gases and the resultant fading.
MOLD & MILDEW—Wool is hygroscopic and can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture. It is necessary to air dry heavy wool garments after wearing them before storing them to prevent mold and mildew growth. Also, never store garments in a plastic bag or another vapor barrier which could promote mildew growth. A breathable bag is a suitable protector. Do not overcrowd your closet! An uncrowded cabinet promotes air circulation and reduces humidity. Open closet doors to encourage air circulation when leaving for an extended visit.
OTHER COMMENTS:
Knit garments are best stored flat for long-term storage to keep their shape.
Cedar is relatively ineffective unless a cedar chest or a fully lined closet is used. Watch for mildew and fume fading in cedar chests. Cedar-lined cabinets need to be rejuvenated frequently.
Mothballs should never be used. The odor accompanying the mothballs can be nearly impossible to remove from fabrics.
Use low-wattage dehumidifiers to control the humidity in closets. Margaret’s sells the Golden Rod style dehumidifiers.
Again, for fine clothing, always store items clean following the wearing season. In addition to attracting moths, many stains are initially invisible and, with time, will become visible and set, making them more challenging to remove.
SUMMARY:
For the reasons stated above, we recommend storing St. John knitwear in breathable garment bags made of non-protein-based synthetic material. Margaret’s offers many options to assist with the proper storage, including three sizes of sweater bags with snap closure for flat storage and four sizes of garment bags with zipper closure for hanging storage. Don’t hesitate to contact Margaret’s for further information regarding these and other garment storage products. Please download our "Guide to Knit Care" newsletter!
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs-AsSeen-News-Specials/Newsletters/Margarets-Guide-to-Knits-2022.pdf
From its original size, I would generally expect to be able to reduce a St. John knit one half a length and increase size to an extent and a half. It does depend on the blocking history of the garment. For extensive blocking, it is best to make an appointment and have our knit blocker work with you and possibly block a few iterations as you wait. Of course, the work must occur at our Convoy Street production facility in San Diego for custom blocking of this type.
Blocking beyond that discussed above may make the knit too thin and lose the knit quality St. John is known for. It is possible to over block in one dimension by giving up a little in the other.
Here is a link to a PDF of our Knit Care newsletter.
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs-AsSeen-News-Specials/Newsletters/Margarets-Guide-to-Knits-2022.pdf
Insect & Other Damage
Tiny holes in garments are typically caused by insects such as clothes moths. It would be best if you investigated treating your closets and setting clothes moth traps to monitor the presence of the insects. Silverfish can also cause that type of damage. Here's a link to our booklet called "What's Bugging' You" for a comprehensive look at the signs, causes, and prevention of insect damage.
https://margarets.com/images/pdfs-AsSeen-News-Specials/Newsletters/Margarets-Fiber-Glossary-2022.pdf
This Before and After photos booklet has a photo of a hole in a knit that was repaired by one of our specialists in reknitting.
https://margarets.com/pdfs-brochures-price-specials/Before-and-After-photos.pdf
Surprisingly, snags are quite possible to repair for many of us, and the garment will look new! Here's a link to our Knit Care newsletter, which has several before and after photos of knit repairs. Also, a nice picture of a repaired long snag is in this Before and After photos booklet.
https://margarets.com/pdfs-brochures-price-specials/Before-and-After-photos.pdf
Handbag & Shopping Tips
If the bag has only surface dirt and no grease, you may want to try a few things yourself. Always test an inconspicuous bag area before working on a visible surface. Try a suede brush. The brushes with both nylon and brass bristles work well. Do not over-brush because you can thin the suede. If that doesn’t work, try a suede eraser. Again, please don’t overdo it.
If grease is associated with the stain, don’t work on it. Your efforts will rub the oil in and make cleaning a more difficult challenge. If the described efforts above are unsuccessful, I will ship the bag to Margaret’s utilizing our CleanByMail facility. We have had very successful experience in cleaning purses and handbags, including suede bags.
Purses are very difficult to clean, and that is why so few dry cleaners are willing to process them. Garment manufacturers are required to label the clothing with appropriate cleaning instructions. However, purse manufacturers are not required to address the issue of serviceability. As such, cleaning is never considered as they design their beautiful purses with combinations of fabric and leather, such as yours, making its cleaning even more of a challenge.
I would NOT recommend that you attempt to clean that coffee stain off your Prada purse yourself, especially since it is a relatively new couture item. It would be a shame to ruin it accidentally. The fact that you live in Taiwan is not a problem. We process such things thru our CleanByMail service all the time. It would be best if you could ship it to us and we will clean and then ship it back to you.
First, be very careful when cleaning purses. There is a reason that most dry cleaners refuse to clean them; they are difficult. If you aren't careful when cleaning, you may remove the stain but permanently distort the purse so that it no longer has the correct shape. Leather trims, fiberboard inserts, mixed material construction, and bags are not mainly designed to be cleaned, making cleaning purses difficult and best left to the professionals.
It has taken us a great deal of time, and, in the process, we have created some specific custom tooling that allows us to have a high degree of success with our Pulito Purse Service. My recommendation with your purse would be to take advantage of our CleanByMail service and send it to Margaret's to be cleaned. This is mainly due to the ink stain, which is always challenging.
Here are a few others that we have never published on the website. It may have been something I found online at some point. A couple of these could also be blog posts, perhaps.
What style of handbag should I take to a job interview?
Regarding job interviews or business lunches, this bag lady says function and style are key. A functional business handbag should be able to carry your resume or portfolio, business card, reference letters, etc., without crumpling them while showcasing your sense of style. Many women forego a purse and use a briefcase depending on the position.
Tips for choosing a handbag or purse for a job interview:
- Choose a functional bag with inside pockets with storage for pens, a cell phone (which, of course, is turned off), business cards, and keys. Be aware of where everything is in your bag. You certainly don’t want to look disorganized.
- Your handbag should be large enough, so your resume isn’t crumpled when slipped inside a long, rectangle tote is perfect!
- Choose a bag with closure - zippers, Velcro, or magnetic flaps so the contents of your bag.
Don’t get jostled or fall out during the interview. - Coordinate the color of your bag to your interview attire, especially your shoes.
- A leather handbag is most appropriate for an interview; nylon or cotton is too casual.
- No matter what, ensure that your bag is free of stains.
When shopping for an evening bag, what should be considered?
The red carpet is the best place to spot the season’s hottest evening bags. Awards shows such as the Oscars, the Golden Globes, or the Grammys feature a parade of celebrities dressed to the nines and carrying perfectly matching handbags. Popular styles of evening bags range from sleek clutches to drawstring sacks. The type of handbag you choose should allow adequate room for your lipstick, keys, identification, and money.
If you can’t bear an evening without your cell phone, a slightly larger purse might be appropriate (if) it doesn’t overwhelm your outfit. More importantly, your evening bag should complement your evening attire. For example, if your dress is a black lace number, you could choose a mini satin beaded purse trimmed in black lace. Another option would be to go with a vibrant red or a shimmering gold to give your outfit that extra va-va-voom!
Think of an evening bag as an extra jewelry piece rather than a travel necessity, and have fun with it! Evening bags are beaded, in satin, silk, sequins, lace, crochet, velvet, embroidered, and jewel-encrusted creations to fit any outfit. You will undoubtedly find your perfect match for the evening with some hunting.
I am going on vacation and am wondering if a new handbag is appropriate?
Safety is vital when traveling - the security of your family and the safe keeping of your travel documents, personal belongings, and money. A traveling handbag should accommodate your most precious travel accessories - cash, traveler's checks, credit cards, passports, room keys, and any other travel identification. A travel handbag should have solid and secure straps, internal storage and Velcro, and button or zippered closures. Many travelers will even carry a money pouch underneath their clothes to further deter thieves.
I purchased a Prada handbag in New York. How do I tell if it's real?
In large cities like Toronto, Vancouver, London, Los Angeles, or New York City, it's a synch to get a designer handbag for a fraction of the cost, or is it? Unfortunately, the rampant sale of fake purses is a popular money-maker for street peddlers and flea market merchants who don’t care whom they dupe to make a quick buck. If you purchased your designer Prada on a New York City Street corner, it’s likely not an original. Place of sale is the number one way to spot an authentic handbag. Here are three easy ways to smell bogus:
If it doesn’t look designer, it’s NOT designer! - Designers like Gucci and Chanel make the highest quality purses. Women are willing to earn a month’s salary to get their hands on one. Therefore, an authentic designer handbag will appear perfect. The colors will be congruent, the lining and the stitching will be free of flaws, and an engraved or imprinted designer logo will appear on the bag.
Demand proof of authenticity - The priciest designer handbags come with an authenticity card. An authenticity card will feature the company logo, a serial number, or a magnetic barcode registered to the designer. Ask to see it before you open your wallet.
The price is a dream come true - If Prada bags were that cheap, every woman on the planet would own one! That’s why if the price sounds too good to be true, it is!
How do I choose a suitable briefcase for the office?
Hard-case briefcases with a stiff clutch handle are no longer the norm in the business world. Thankfully, more ergonomically designed, over-the-shoulder leather cases and padded computer bags are just as classy yet comfortable to carry.
Tips for choosing a briefcase for the office:
- Purchase bigger than you need. Remember in high school when you had to stuff your backpack to accommodate all your books and ended up with back strain? The same applies to the office, so look for a briefcase with expandable compartments and outside storage for extra items.
- Weight test - Leather briefcases are classics, but they can be heavy. Lighter alternatives, like canvas and microfiber, are just as attractive, and some other options are even more weatherproof and durable.
- Consider what you will be carrying - a laptop, cell phone, file folder and purchase a case with suitable storage compartments.
- Price a messenger-style bag is just as attractive and functional and costs approximately $60 to $100 online. However, a soft leather Coach or Hartmann briefcase can earn $500 online.
How do I remove blue dye stains from my shoes and bags?
The trade-off to supersaturated indigo jeans is that the dyeing process for such a dark finish doesn’t always sit well, according to Chuck Horst, one of the owners of Margaret’s Cleaners in San Diego, California. Before wearing them with light accessories, ensure they’ve been washed at least eight times to prevent color transference. If smudging does occur, you’ll need to take the damaged item to a cleaning specialist, who will use chemicals to lift the dye without altering the original hue of your purse or pumps. Both leather and suede can be saved, but it will take a fairy godmother to restore PVC-coated canvas items to stain-free status. (Published in InStyle Magazine)
What can I do if I don’t reside near you?
With Margaret’s CleanByMail® service, we can clean your bag no matter where you live! Handbags are one of our most popular CleanByMail items! Submit a handbag estimate on our website. We’ll call or email you back promptly. Complimentary webcam consultation is also available. If you like the assessment, mail your handbag to us.
Is there anything I should do to a suede purse before I use it?
The best thing you can do to a new suede handbag is to have a professional application of a stain and water repellant to it…the interior lining and exterior.
What are the most challenging stains to remove?
Ink, oil, and makeup are some of the worst. Crocking (dye transfer) on leathers is generally very removable...this is not so true for PVC and patent leather handbags.
Can you treat my purse so that it won’t get stained again?
Depending on the purse, if a protective finish can be applied, we may be able to make it much easier to clean next time it gets stained. Remember that some materials cannot be treated with a stain protector. e.g., patent leather, and many imitation types of leather that are any plastic, vinyl, or polyurethane. This treatment must be done professionally, or the color of the bag may darken.
Do you clean the inside lining or do other repairs?
Yes, cleaning the lining is included in our general cleaning services. Some types of stains (ink is one) may not come out entirely. However, most clients are impressed with how much the lining can be cleaned up. We can also repair or replace zippers and other hardware such as worn rivets and metal strips.
Are all purses water resistant?
Water resistance is not naturally built into any purse unless the manufacturer explicitly performs the process on their bags. The only way to be sure is to have it done yourself. Many materials are prone to water spots and discoloring if not treated. A good water and stain repellant will help that bag last longer too. Again, however, not all types of materials found in handbags can be treated with a water repellant. Also, if not professionally applied, a water repellant may change the color of the bag.
Can you restore my handbag?
Depending on the materials, age, and general condition of a bag, sometimes much can be done to restore a distressed handbag. We’d have to see it to be able to evaluate the possibilities and give you an estimate for restoration. This is a perfect time to take advantage of our complimentary webcam consultation service.
Can you dye my handbag a different color?
Often this can be done, but dying a bag can be problematic. If the thread is a synthetic fiber, it may not take dye like the bag. Keep in mind that the lining cannot be dyed to match. Also, often the texture of the bag will change in the process. When edges become worn, the original color may show through.
What caused my handbag to develop white spots and a musty odor while it was in storage for the Winter?
That sounds like mildew. Mildew is a fungus that loves to grow on leathers and textiles in moist, warm, dark storage areas. First, it grows on the top surface, staining and discoloring it. Eventually, it can damage the item. Mildew is not easy to eliminate, depending on how long it’s been allowed to grow. Often ozone treatment is needed to stop the odor.
For more information on mold and mildew, see our newsletter on the website entitled “A Mold and Mildew Primer.”
How can I clean the soil from my new suede handbag?
Suppose the bag has only surface dirt and no grease. You may want to try a few things yourself. Always test an inconspicuous bag area before working on a visible surface. Try a suede brush. The brushes with both nylon and brass bristles work well. Do not over-brush because you can thin the suede. If that doesn’t work, try a suede eraser. Again, please don’t overdo it. If grease is associated with the stain, don’t attempt to work on it. Your efforts will rub the oil in and make cleaning a more difficult challenge.
Is there anything I can do to remove ink from a suede bag?
Ink on ANY purse is a difficult stain to remove, even for an experienced cleaner. Dyes on suede and leather garments are not as colorfast as one would desire. Often it is necessary to remove some paint along with the ink and then replace the dye. This is an intensive process depending on the color of the suede. Be sure to ask your leather cleaning service how well they do with ink before entrusting them with the item. Again, we recommend allowing Margaret’s to handle it.
Specialty Garment Care
First, have that beaded chiffon and satin dress cleaned, even if you don't see any stains. Make sure your dry cleaner pre-treats the underarms well. Before taking it to the cleaner, try to separate the chiffon from the satin, if you can, so you can see through the chiffon. Hold it up to light and check for stains. Most stains are absorbed into the chiffon layer and are not always visible on the satin beneath it.
After cleaning, you have several choices:
- It's common for people to redesign a unique event dress so it can be used for a regular night out. We have excellent specialists who can do that type of alteration for you.
- You could also have it "Heirloomed" and stored in an archival-quality acid-free box. Margaret's can do this for you too. Store the container in a dry area.
The short answer is "YES." but there is much information we need before we can say that with any certainty. In some circumstances, the only safe option will be spot clean or to "freshen up" the garment. That said, Margaret's has the skill and expertise to know how to handle virtually anything. With today's smartphones, we can exchange information in real-time using FaceTime or texted photos, allowing us to answer those questions from anywhere. You will find an estimate form for specialty items on our website, which allows you to upload pictures of the garment.
That glitter shell requires special care. You can tumble the pieces in the dryer (preferably in a mesh net) but be careful--if you have dangling metal clasps or fragile buttons, they may need to be removed. This will shake loose some of the extra glitters. You could also use a blow dryer. When it's time to clean the garment, look for a Hydrocarbon cleaner to minimize permanent loss of glitter and ask that they "short run" the apparel. Falling glitter is a long-term problem that will improve with each cleaning or tumbling but will rarely disappear completely.
Let's get technical here. STAINS are permanent and, in some cases, can be lightened or improved. SPOTS typically can be removed. We tell every customer, "if you are not 100% sure you can remove that spot, DO NOTHING and get it to us as soon as possible" otherwise, you'll turn that spot into a stain!